Water pump swap (April / May 2001)

Just before I put the car in winter storage, I noticed it dripped a little coolant. I forgot all about it until I drove the car for the first time in April. By the time I had the car back in the garage, the drip had developed into a sizeable leak, which originated from somewhere under the water pump pulley. O-oh. Time for a new water pump, especially since the pulley also wobbled (sign of bearings going out).

I ordered the insanely expensive new pump from a Finnish supplier, they had it on stock and the car had sat for much longer than I wanted to already. On to replacing it...

vanha_pumppu_paikalla_2 Old pump still in place (P/S pump and thermostat housing removed). Everything came off easy, although I was worried about the right side, which is sandwiched between the A/C compressor bracket and the engine.

The relevant part of the bracket can be actually removed completely; two bolts under the front of the compressor, one more directly to the engine block (down under), and two more through the arms of the water pump. You'll be glad you did this once you try to install the new pump. The compressor will be fine supported only on the rear bracket during this job.

pultit The bolts. With A/C, there are nine bolts that have to come off, and they are of 5 different lengths. Be sure to measure and document them immediately after you remove one... (I think I have my scratch copy of the shop manual page still somewhere, in case you didn't)
pumppu_irti_vasen Now the pump is off. What a mess underneath, although I've tried to wash the engine earlier.
pumppu_irti_oikea_kansi The end of the right cylinder head is rusty, I suppose the connection has leaked sometime in the past.
pumput_lattialla The pumps - guess which one is new? The shafts protrude a different length out of the hubs, which got me worried first, until I measured the distance between the outer surface of the hub and the pump face. That's what's important and is different in A/C vs. non-A/C - the three-belt pulley of an A/C car would hit the pump face, if the hub was positioned on the shaft for non-A/C, not to mention that the belts would be badly misaligned.

You could shim the A/C pulley to a non-A/C pump, but the other direction would require pressing the hub further down on the shaft, which you can't do after the pump has been assembled without ruining the bearings... so be sure to specify which one you need, even if the supplier doesn't remember to ask.

tiivisteet_paikallaan I used Hylomar Blue (seems to be a global trade name) to glue in the gaskets. It never hardens completely, so you have plenty of time to install all four gaskets.

I first glued the gaskets to the engine. The bolts came in real handy for aligning the gaskets properly while the goo dried somewhat. Then I applied the goo on the gaskets and on the pump, and supported the pump in place with a couple of "free" bolts while fighting with the A/C bracket to get it back in place.

uusi_paikallaan_vasen uusi_paikallaan_oikea Now there it finally is, with only the pulley, fan, belts and the upper radiator hose still missing. Guess I should have repainted the P/S pump and bracket while it was off last summer...

BTW, it is possible to remove/install the fan and clutch together, without removing the fan shroud. Turn the A/C compressor away completely, and there is one position in which you can squeeze the fan back in. Thread one of the attaching bolts in to the pulley / water pump hub first, or you'll never get the holes to align.

Too bad the new pump leaks, too... I'll get to do this again unless the shaft seal starts to work after some use.

[Which it of course didn't; I discussed the remaining small leak with the supplier, who said that the seal should set during the first couple of hours of use. It appeared to do just that at first, but suddenly let go with a steady stream. I got a new replacement pump, which was water tight from the start. The second swap took me only two hours instead of six :-) ]


(C) Copyright Mika Iisakkila 2001

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